So you’ve completed your pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago and looking to continue your journey. Somewhere along the trail you heard of the Kumano Kodo and the dual pilgrim certificate. Now, just like the Camino, the Kumano is calling you. I have completed over a dozen Caminos and five Kumanos, the last one joined by Jose Marie from El Camino People, and his brother. I wanted to share some practical insights into what to expect, how to start planning your own trip, and most importantly, how does it compare to the Camino de Santiago.

What is the Kumano Kodo?

Let’s start with the basics, what is the Kumano Kodo? Similar to the Camino, the Kumano Kodo is a series of ancient, multi-day, walking paths in the remote Kii Peninsula south of Kyoto. Emperors and those individuals looking for enlightenment hiked the trails which connect major shrines. It is the only other UNESCO listed hiking trail in the world. Completing both the Camino de Santiago and Kumano Kodo entitles you to be bestowed the title of Dual Pilgrim and awarded a certificate of completion. Depending on route, expect 5-7 days of walking and approximately 80kms of distance.

Routes

Similar to the Camino, the Kumano Kodo consists of a number of different routes that connect major shrines, or Taisha, as they are called in Japan.

Nakahechi Route: This is the most popular and historically significant route. You can think of it as the Camino Frances of the Kumano. It stretches about 40km from Takijiri-oji, near Tanabe, to Hongu Taisha. Plan for 3-4 days of walking
Nachi Route: This route continues from Hongu Taisha to Nachi Taisha. Many hikers combine the Nakahechi and Nachi routes for their journey. This is also what I would recommend for a great experience. Nachi has some difficult hills, but perhaps the most spectacular hiking you will experience on the Kumano. It is about 25km. Plan for 2-3 days to complete this section.
Kohechi Route: This is challenging and remote route where you will need to be fully self-sufficient and have experience back country hiking. It is approximately 80km, taking 5-6 days, starting from Hongu Taisha and ending at Koyasan, a mountain with a many Buddhist temples, some of which you can stay at.
Ohechi Route: This 100km route roughly follows the Kii Peninsula coast line. I have not completed this route. From those I have spoken to who have completed it, the route has mostly been lost due to road construction. It is not highly recommended.
Iseji Route: Similar to the Ohechi, this 170km is not highly traversed and more urban than other routes. Not highly recommended.

To boil the routes down, I would highly suggest combining the Nakahechi and Nachi routes for your journey. You will experience the best of the Kumano, amazing accommodation, and easiest planning. If you want an additional challenge and used to carrying a tent , food, and back country hiking, the Kohechi route is a great wilderness experience, but not for the inexperienced. When I completed the Kohechi, I loved it, but was exhausted. I stayed two days in Koyasan to enjoy the Buddhist teachings.

How is it different from the Camino de Santiago?

Due to their historical and spiritual significance, most people naturally look to compare the Kumano Kodo with the Camino de Santiago. The comparison is natural and helpful. I will do my best to compare and contrast the two hikes thought out, but prepared for a very different experience when you hike the Kumano. Knowing this ahead of time will help you get the most out of an incredible journey.

You only need a day pack

Unless you are doing the Kohechi route (see below) you do not need to pack a tent or camping gear. Also, unless you get really cold, you won’t need to bring a sleeping bag either. All accommodation provides blankets.

There are not many food services during the days

You are in a very remote, mountainous location. On occasion, the route cross a road or traverses through a small town where simple provisions are available, but don’t count on it. Bring a bottle or camel back for water, and always opt in for the packed lunches your accommodations will provide. There is nothing better than snacking on a rice ball in the middle of the lush forests alon the Kumano.

It is not a social hike

The camino, especially the Camino Frances is an extremely social journey. You typically meet dozens of people along the way each day, spend time in bars, and enjoying communal meals in albergues at night. The Kumano is not like this. It is much more solitary. You may see one or two other hiking groups during the day, and at night, you spend the evening in your accommodation in the company of yourself of fellow party members. I have never stayed in an accommodation with more than my own party in the same location.

Go in knowing what sort of experience you want. If you are very comfortable barely speaking during your hike and looking for some time to simply enjoy the solitude, walk the kumano yourself. Unlike the camino, you are very unlikely to meet someone else to walk with. For most people, my suggestion is to go with a small group of 2-4 like minded friends. You will enjoy the company whilst walking, and more importantly, during the evenings and dinners. Any more than 4 people may have a harder time finding accommodation together.

Expect to see only a handful of people a day along the trail

The food is amazing

I am not a foodie. I am perfectly happy with the food offerings you find on the Camino de Santiago, but after a month of potatoes, bocadillas, and bread, even I get a little tired of it. The Kumano, on the other hand, is a culinary delight! Every night, your meals are home cooked marvels of dish upon dish of local delicacies. Even Onigiri, the rice balls snacks that you find in convenience stores and the occasional vending machine at a road crossing are full of flavor. The Camino certainly has a leg up for the coffee addicts out there. You will be hard pressed to get a good cafe on the Kumano, although in the tiny town of Nakahechico Chikatsuyu, you will find a Cabelo Coffee. The friendly owner, Tatsumi-san, has been roasting coffee for more than a dozen years, will welcome you in for a well deserved rest and a fantastic cup.

You must book ahead

One of the joys of the camino is the freedom to stop where you feel like it. However, on the Kumano Kodo, you need to book your accommodation and have your itinerary planned in advance. Later in this article, I will cover more details about how to book, but just keep in mind that your accommodations are more akin to homestays. You and your party are likely to be the only guest, and the host needs to shop for food to prepare your meals.

Accommodation is not always on trail

If you are like me, the thought of walking an extra 200m off the camino at the end of the long day is unthinkable. The Kumano is different. There will be times when your accommodation is not directly on the trail. It may be 300-400 meters in a side street in a small village, but it may also be a short bus ride away depending on your stage. I’ll cover business and accommodation more later.

Be prepared for a lot of elevation changes

In general, the Camino de Santiago, is mostly flat, especially the Frances. It is more of an urban walk than a wilderness walk. The Kumano Kodo is much more wilderness and remote. It feels like you are miles from any civilization although you are never too far from a road if you need assistance (unless you are doing the Kohechi route!)The Kumano is far from flat. It’s length traverses mountain ranges with tight hills and valleys. The highest point is roughly 1300m, but you are constantly traversing up and down rocky trails covered in roots and leaves. Whilst distance may seem short, days can be very tiring. It takes more concentration to hike the Kumano as you are frequently watching where you step. You could compare the terrain of the Kumano to be similar with the descent from the Pyrenees to Roncesvalle or the assent to O’ Cebrero.

More stamps to collect!

Just like the Camino de Santiago, there are stamps to collect! You can pick up your stamp book at the tourist office at Kii-Tanabe train station. Along the trail, you will come across Oji, small shrines that contain a stamp and ink pad. The stamp book also lists the oji to ensure that you collect them all. One piece of advice, bring your own ink pad. The last time I hiked the camino, many of the stamps were dry, making it very difficult to get a good impression in your book.

Collecting stamps at the Oji along the trail.

Getting there

The trains

The Kumano Kodo is in a remote part of the main island of Japan. Depending on where you arrive into Japan, you will mostly likely have to pass through Kyoto or Osaka to reach Kii-Tanabe, the main town closest to the start of the Nakahechi route. Thankfully the trains in Japan are incredibly easy to navigate. From Kyoto, expect the journey to take 3-4 hours with one potential change in Osaka. A word of warning, be careful not to disembark the train in Tanabe. Tanable and Kii-Tanabe are two different towns. For a high level overview of train routes around the camino, check out this site.

The buses

Your first day on the Nakahechi route, will require a 30 minute bus ride to the trailhead at Takijiri, departing from Kii-Tanabe rail station. You must have local currency to pay for your journey. Do your best to have exact money. Coins work best. Don’t be put off by the initially confusion system of numbers and fee amounts you see on the electronic board above the driver. It’s quite simple:

Board through the rear door, and disembark through the front door
Take a ticket upon boarding
As your stop draws near, push the button to inform the driver.
Match your ticket number to the fare chart on the electronic board
Put money and ticket in the same slot in the fare box. (If you need help, the drivers are incredibly friendly.

Accommodation

As mentioned previously, accommodation is generally small home stay style. You must book in advance. Depending on what your preference is, you can find farm houses, traditional ryokans, a more western style guest house, and anything in between. In almost every case, you won’t have western style beds, rather a comfortable map on the floor with plenty of blankets to keep you warm. Internet is a nice surprise, but don’t expect it. You will have well appointed bathing facilities, and most accommodation will have some form of onsen - traditional hot bath - to soak in. Onsens are a great treat at the end of a long day. Keep in mind of the quality of the onsen is directly related to how much your accommodation costs.

Contemplating the next day’s hike in a traditional farm house

I highly encourage you sign up for accommodation + dinner at a minimum. Your evening meals will be a highlight of your trip. I also typically sign up for the lunch box option as well, but skip the breakfast. The lunchboxes are very generous portions containing fruit, Onigiri and hard boiled egg. I will snack on it for breakfast after an hour on the trail. Generally speaking, there will be no cafe where you stay and meals will be served at a set time. If you think you will be hungry before then, pick up a snack along the trail and store it in your pack until you need it.

Aim to book accommodation as close to the trail as possible, although I recommend staying in Yunomine, about 30 minutes bus ride from Hongu-Taisha. Hongu, the end of the Nakahechi route, and beginning of the Naichi route, is very touristy with little charm outside of the temple complex. A night in charming town of Yunomine, filled with some of the oldest onsens in Japan, is well worth the bus ride. At the completion, of the Nachi route, you will also needcatch a local bus to Kii-Katasura, a small fishing village, which has plenty of accommodation.

Kumaano Farm House is a little off the trail, but a wonderful local experience.

Booking and planning

When compared to the Camino de Santiago, there is very little booking and planning information for the Kumano Kodo online. There is really only a single place to book, https://www.kumano-travel.com. It is slowly improving since I first walked it back in 2016, but it is still not great. The process can be confusing.

Here is a quick guide on how I would suggest you get start.

Start with the model itineraries to figure out which routes you want to walk, and how many days. Most importantly, deciding on an itinerary will help you know which towns you will stay in. You will need these to find accommodation. I like to create a spreadsheet with start/end dates to map distance, towns, and any info I may need such as buses. I also include a backup accommodation if my first choice is not available.
Jump over to the accommodations page and click into the region/towns that you selected and cross through until you find something that suits your budget and style. Pay attention to the description and location. Many of the accommodations require a bus ride. Avoid these wherever possible. Although some bus rides cannot be avoided, I do think catching too many buses ruin the experience. I certainly made this mistake on my first Kumano trip. Once you find something that suits, select a package and complete the details to add the accommodation to cart.
Continue the process of adding accommodations until you are done. Then, click on your cart to ‘checkout’. This actually creates a request for the Kumano travel organization to contact your accommodations to attempt to make reservations for your dates. If the dates are unavailable, suggested alternatives will be provided. Read the details on these alternatives closely. Often they will be a poorer substitute and may require buses. Again, I made this mistake. Hopefully, I can prevent you from doing the same.
Once you lock in your accommodations, it’s time to pay, and get ready for your trip!

Suggested Itinerary

Congratulations. You have made it this far. You must be excited to become a dual pilgrim and enjoy the incredible beauty of the Kumano Kodo. I highly encourage you to create an itinerary that suits your walking style, but if you need a few suggestions on what I would recommend. This would be my plan:

Figuring out how much further till we can soak in the next onsen

Day 0: Spend some time in Kyoto. It is an incredibly beautiful city with so much to see
Day 1: Catch the train to Kii-Tanabe early morning. Plan to arrive around 10am and drop into the Kumano tourist office next to the train station and pick up a map and stamp book. Then catch the bus directly to Takajiri to start hiking the Kumano Nakahechi route. There is very little to offer in Kii-Tanabe. Hike approximately 5km to Takahara. I recommend Tenku-no-Satoyama for a beautiful, traditional homestay.
Day 2: Depart around 8am for a 13km hike to Tsugizakura-oji. At around 10km, stop at Cabelo Coffee before the final last few kilometers uphill. I highly recommend staying that the 3rd Place Kumano. The accommodation itself is pretty basic, but the evening meal more than makes up for it.
Day 3: This is a long day, but unless you want to stay off trail, you have little choice. After 26km, you will arrive at Hongu Taishi and the end of the Nakahechi route. Take some time and explore the temple grounds. If you brought your compostella, you can show the staff who will let you bang the ceremonial drum. Once you are done exploring the temple, head down the stairs to the Kumano tourist office, across the road and directly behind the buses. Here you can receive your dual pilgrim certificate. Take it outside and get a photo beside the camino distance marker which was donated by Galicia to the Kumano. In the evening, you can either stay in town, or take a 30 minute bus ride to Yunomine. I recommend staying in Yunomine and soaking away the aches and pains of a long day in one of the main fantastic onsens.
Day 4: Catch the bus to Ukegawa, one or two stops before Hongu Taisha and start the Nachi route. End in 13km in the village of Kogushi. Accommodation in this town is quite spread out. Last time, we stayed at the Kumaano Farm and Guest house. The owner picked us up and drove us in the back of his pickup 10 minutes into the hills, beside a river. The house was small but full of charm. With 3 people, we were pretty crowded when sleeping, but the rest of the time was a great experience, including the open-to-the-outside tub to soak in and watch a nearby waterfall. In the morning, he returned us to trailhead.
Day 5: Your final day on trail. Be prepared for the biggest climb of your journey. For 1.5-2 hours you will work your way uphill to start the day. Yes, it is hard, but perhaps the most beautiful section of the entire Kumano. Once you reach the top, celebrate your hard work and enjoy an undulating trail for the rest of the way until Nachi Taisha and a well deserved ice-cream. Days distance is 15km. Explore the temple complex before taking a bus to Kii-Katsuura. This medium sized town has plenty of accommodation options, and a surprisingly good Thai restaurant if you need a change from Japanese cuisine.

Dual pilgrims can bang the ceremonial drum at Hongu Taisha

Conclusion

The Kumano Kodo is a beautiful and fascinating trek. It shares many similarities with the Camino de Santiago, but it is very different. Being aware of these differences goes along way to ensuring that you enjoy your journey and time in this unique part of the world. I have tried to provide an overview of these difference and some helpful tips for making your own journey. If you have any questions, please reach out to and let me know.

Everything you need to know to hike the Kumano Kodo